What is Yorkshire? (Part 2)

Yorkshire is more than Malham and Kilnsey....

Stu Cobra Lyall Cruisin For A Bruisin 7b (Photo: Dan Walker)

Pushing yourself on hard projects is great but for the tick-aholic there is nothing better than turning up at a new crag and getting stuff done. With the pressure off after completing True North and the so called summer still not happening trips to the Yorkshire limestone continue to seem like one of the most likely ways to climb dry rock of a weekend.

Possible kneebar, Love Sculpture (Photo: Dan Walker)

A Glaswegian raiding party was assembled and set off down the all too familiar M74 with big plans for success. Modern fuel prices make every tick that little more expensive and adds an extra reason to get the most out of every weekend trip.

Going through the sequence before the redpoint of Pegged Out (Photo: Dan Walker)

Having a sunny Saturday forecast and sensing it to be dry down there, we agreed to check out Yew Cogar for a day of something different. Having never been before I was keen to see how a Yorkshire tufa measured up and while this is no Rodellar or Kalymnos, the rock at the right hand end of the crag reminded me (minus the humungous cave and 20m of extra length) of La Balme de Yenne, my most local quality crag when I was based in Lyon. The prickly tufas of Cruisin for a Bruisin and Vorsprung Durch Technique were great fun to climb despite being over all too soon.

Biceps Guy 2.0 on Vorsprung Durch Tecnik 7c+ (Photo: Dan Walker) 

Despite the odd frustration a great day was had away from the crowds. We were joined by a certain Mr McHaffie who was fantastic to watch in action. I could really do with a dose of Caf staying power and tenacity the next time I don my trad rack - impressive stuff.

Reviewing the sequence after the redpoint of Pegged Out - a lot more sketchy! (Photo: Dan Walker)

I was quite pleased with my own day mind you, drawing 2 routes closer to another major milestone, my 200th grade 8. No doubt I would have reached that number last year had I not returned from Spain, the gross slow down in my 8 ticking rate reminds me of how difficult it is to get sport climbing volume in the UK in general and in Scotland in particular, especially if you can’t afford or don’t have the time for a lot of foreign holidays.

It's down there somewhere! (Photo: Dan Walker)

Not put off by the trudge out, a return visit will definitely be on the cards. I’d love to lay claim to the quair of Vickers' routes, though from what I have heard the 8a and the 8b+ might not give themselves up as easily as Pegged Out and Love Sculpture.

Kilnsey Crag - ahhhhhhhh! (Photo: Dan Walker)

A rainy Sunday forecast provided a good excuse for a return to Kilnsey in search of the next big personal project. I really feel it’s time to raise my game after building a good base of 8c’s now. Although I was so close to Metalcore last year, the UK weather and my previous experience with True North has led me to believe that it is worth having a few project options at any one time if you want to be guaranteed a big tick or two in any one year. (The other alternative being giving up your job, but I still haven’t got that one sussed).

Chris Savage who has been crushing his way through the Yorkshire limestone was happy to give away all the crucial beta on Progress which was an important head start. Chris has now dispatched the route in impressive time. Nice one Chris. Watching him on it made me wince at how weak my fingers are in comparison as he chalked up on the little crimps from which the the 3rd clip is clipped. The fact I can’t take a hand off at this point gave me a clear indication of the training I need to do to get this route done either crimp like a disease or embrace the ground fall and keep climbing…. what a choice!